Phase 2

( Click on images for more detail )

 

 

KKK-K26

Second hand  Turbocharger from an Audi Quattro bought cheap through Ebay.

 

Compressor Map

This turbocharger is theoretically capable of delivering 0.2kg (0.44lbs/sec) of air at 2.3bar ( 33psi ) boost pressure at a  maximum safe speed of 120,000 rpm. This should hopefully give me about 11kg ( 24lbs ) of thrust to play with. With an afterburner about 30% increase in thrust can be achieved which would give about 31lbs ( 14kgs ) of thrust.

 

 

Compressor

Inlet ( Inducer ) about 44mm in diameter, major diameter ( exducer ) 66mm. The compressor nut will be used to couple some sort of device to spin the shaft to +20,000rpm for starting.  The standard way of starting these engines is via a powerful source of air for example from a leaf blower, that is forced through the engine spinning the turbo to the required rpm in the process. As I would like to have everything self contained this won't be an option for me. I haven't developed this yet but ideas I have for this are either a high speed electric motor, a small model 2-stroke engine or a high speed air tool like a drill powered by compressed air from a small high pressure cylinder.

 

 

Turbine Wheel

 

In the process of being cleaned. Hard encrusted  deposits from combustion products from the original engine require laborious scraping, as there is no known way of removing them chemically.

 

 

Bell Mouth

Bell mouths help smooth the passage of air to the inlet. This one I made from a stainless steel travel mug..!

 

Turbine Scroll

 

Removed for cleaning. Like the turbine wheel this was encrusted with beige coloured deposits that had to be scraped out. The internal surface was also smoothed off using various files and emery paper to aid the passage of the hot high speed gases. The inlet is of the undivided type, i.e. it does not have two seperate channels which tends to reduce flowing efficiency of the hot gases.

 

Turbine Adaptor Cone

 

Cone made from 4mm gauge steam pipe. Like the pipe/combustor mating flange this was made by making Vee cuts in one end of the pipe and brining the petals together. The radius of curvature of the petals then needed to be reduced which was done using a home made three-pronged device and a vice. A very laborious process but the result was well worth it!

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

Combustion Chamber

Made from an old style Thorn 9 Litre water fire extinguisher 7 inches in diameter with  1.75mm thick walls and of welded construction. Conveniently sized and already designed to contain pressures in excess of 20bar although it will only ever see less than 50psi in practice.  The flame tube will be made from a 5 inch diameter section of stainless 316 20swg  ( 0.92mm ) flue pipe.

 

 

Large..!

With a diameter of 7 inches and overall length of 14 inches the combustion chamber is probably larger than it needs to be given the size of the turbo, but I wanted to be sure that it was going to work first time. It is better to have it too large and working rather than too small with combustion problems! Making it bigger also means I can attach a larger turbo at a later stage without having to make another combustor.

 

Fuel Delivery End

Top of fire extinguisher capped off with 5mm steel plate with 10mm  hole for fuel nozzle. The ring of bolts are for locating the flame tube.

 

Mating Flange

Flange plates made from 5mm steel used for joining two halves of chamber together.

 

Cleaned

Water fire extinguishers are internally coated with plastic for corrosion protection which has to be removed. I did it using a blow torch,  a hot knife and a wire brush ( very smelly process! )

 

Assembled

Combustion chamber temporarily assembled with 90 degree turbine inlet pipe. The pipe is heavy gauge steam pipe, a bit heavy for the job but the only thing I could find other than making it myself. A lucky find in the scrap bin of a local engineering firm!

 

Pipe/Combustor Flange

The flange was made from a single disk of 5mm steel plate. Petals were cut into the edge and bent inwards to create a conical effect to match as close as possible the curve of the combustor. The mating surfaces will be sealed with a high temperature gasket paste the kind used for repairing exhaust systems.

 

Exit Hole

Other half of the combustion chamber. The individual petals at the mouth of the exit hole are temporarily there to act as shims for shaping the pipe flange and will be removed. The ring of bolts holding the flange will act as locating pins for the other end of the flame tube.

 

Oil System

An improved version over the Phase 1 effort. Includes oil filter adaptor and oil cooler powered by a more powerful 12v car fan motor.

 

Drive belt

Power steering pump driven by belt drive using smaller pinion on motor to give a better 8:1 reduction ratio.

 

Oil Inlet & Drain

 

The drain pipe is used to transfer the hot oil from the outlet to the oil tank having passed through the turbo shaft housing. The internal diameter is larger than the oil outlet hole and drops vertically to the reservoir to ensure that the oil does not back up into the housing and cause problems with the bearing seals. The small attached pipe receives the excess bypass oil via the pressure relief valve.

 

 

 

 

Last updated

Sunday, 02 March 2008